mammut smart alpine vs mega jul

Best value: The Mammut Smart is great if you are a beginner and mostly top roping. We felt confident that with some practice this would not be an issue. We can now rest assured that we have done the work in our pursuit for an assisted-braking device. One of our favorite assisted belay device in the market the Edelrid Mega Jul. A climbing-specific style of footwear, approach shoes offer a unique combination of hiking shoes, climbing slippers, and sometimes even mountaineering boots. We currently use a Black Diamond ATC Guide, so we are comfortable with tubular devices. Eastern Cape – Port Elizabeth I so wish I could get my hands on a Tre (https://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5172). Rotpunkt: Bibliographie | Alex Megos climbs his hardest project yet, VIDEO: Thomas Van Tonder gets High Above Soweto with 90m Rope Climb Record, From Winning Nothing To Climbing Champion. I first noticed this belay device hanging off the harness of a friend who runs a local climbing shop. Some assisted-braking devices are even made in two different sizes (the Mammut Smart Alpine, for example, comes in both a 8.7–10.5mm and a 7.5–9.5mm model) because their ranges are so limiting. I found it much easier to extend on a 60cm sling (doubled, i.e. The CAMP Ovo and Kong Gi-Gi are two of our top choices. Don't let a long day at the crag mess with the integrity of your belaying. Western Cape – Rocklands But in a situation where the climber is being belayed from the top of the climb (common in multi-pitch climbing), the extra loop attaches the device to the anchor, allowing the leader to belay the follower more safely (the rope locks down on itself and assists in braking). The rope also slipped out of the sheath more easily than the other two devices. Full Metal Brisket (5.15a/9a+) — First Ascent! KwaZulu Natal – Pietermartizburg However, the Pilot also resembles a mini version of Mammut Smart Alpine (for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm). Learn how to use the Mammut Smart to belay. As we mentioned in depth above, there are times (mainly in multi-pitch environments) when a climber will belay his or her partner from above. Many beginner climbers will start with a tube device—the CAMP Shell being our favorite budget option—but for $10 more, an auto-blocking tube device (see below) provides a huge bump in versatility. The Mega Jul (for ropes 7.8-11mm) is the closest in shape to the Pilot. Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, and Mad Rock Lifeguard are probably your best bets out of the 20 options considered. We use affiliate links and may receive a small commission on purchases. The open thumb catch means that the rope slides against your thumb and forefinger – potentially exposing your skin to rope burn on thicker ropes (we both experienced this). We have been climbing for about 2 years so we are relative newbies – we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing. The device has a very distinctive clicking noise when in use and can be heard from across the gym or crag, it’s not a big deal but can get a little annoying. The Smart 2.0 is Mammut’s assisted belay device. This stiff, aggressive shoe is perhaps best known for its ability to perch on tiny edges... Any piece of climbing gear has the potential to become a cherished relic, but perhaps none carries as many good memories as a trusty old rope. I guess it’s a question of habit & taste. And it was close.” “Did you hear that rush of wind?” “Yeah… like a parachute opening!” “But where did it go?” Megan and I look around... As a beginning climber, the last thing you want to spend your time worrying about is your shoes, or the poor feet you’ve crammed into them on somebody’s bad advice. The first generation of the Smart belay device was successfully launched in 2009. Here, we’ll cover the basics to help you find the right belay device for your needs. Performance in guide mode and rappelling are about the same. Von daher bin ich bei diesem Sicherungsgerät geblieben. Again, personnal taste. Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Price: $18Style: TubeWhat we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use.What we don’t: To belay from above in a multi-pitch scenario, you’ll need to step up to a device like the ATC-Guide below.See the Black Diamond ATC, Price: $110Style: Assisted-brakingWhat we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay.What we don’t: Heavy, expensive, and requires a bit of a learning curve. Of course, it’s OK to belay with a standard locking carabiner, but be sure to keep your eyes on your device from time to time to make sure it is correctly situated. The GriGri is a great choice, and probably the most widely used assisted braking belay device around. The vast majority of tube-style devices and plates have this capability, but most assisted-braking devices are designed to handle just one rope (with the exception of the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Mammut Smart Alpine). Oh yeah, headlamp. But for ounce counters, they can provide a great substitute for heavier and bulkier devices. Performance in guide mode and rappelling are about the same. Assisted-Braking Mammut Smart Alpine| $45 mammut.ch.com ★★ ★ According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. Auto-Blocking Tube Assisted-braking devices are becoming increasingly popular, largely due to the amount of safety that they add to belaying and rappelling. The one serious grievance i have with the smart is rappel = abseil. This can probably be fixed with gaining comfort with the device, but we feel there are better choices if lead climbing is your focus. To complete your setup, see our articles on the best climbing harnesses and best rock climbing shoes. If you’re used to belaying with an ATC, and still will outdoors, then the Edelrid Jul or the Black Diamond ATC Pilot offer the most similar slack feeding technique, but use assisted braking tech. Gauteng – Johannesburg Also worth noting is that the Smart HMS carabiner is specially designed for use with the Mammut Smart 2.0 and it is not meant for using with tube-style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC-series, Petzl Reverso, or Edelrid Mega Jul. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. That said, there are myriad options to choose from, and some do the job better than others. I have the smart alpine and I struggled initially with the difficulty of releasing whilst abseiling. Lowering a climber felt effortless and totally controlled – mainly due to the long thumb lever where one can really tweak the angle with precision. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven One downside to active assisted-braking devices is that the camming unit places extra wear and tear on the rope. Unlike the other two devices, you have to use the thumb lever at all times when feeding slack. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. KwaZulu Natal – Durban Mammut Smart. If you’re climbing with two ropes, make sure you have the proper tool for the job. About Us. Cannot be used for rappelling or double-rope setups.See the Petzl Grigri, Price: $30Style: Auto-blocking tubeWhat we like: Lightweight, affordable, and allows you to belay from above in guide mode. Yes Mammut does have and auto locking belay plate which works on 2 ropes but it doesn't have a guide mode, which is very useful if you are doing a multi-pitch route. In this context, the main concern is cross-loading: you never want the carabiner to flip sideways on your harness, where the force begins pulling side-to-side rather than parallel with the spine. The other devices do not have this problem. Weight of a few grams didn’t bother us much, so this was fairly low on our priority list. Kat: I came from Gauteng in 2006, was 12 years old. If you are a climber... We wake at 6am to the faint jingle of Lorna’s watch muffled by her sleeping bag. inb4 someone says Alpine Up, is it really worth it if Alpine Up costs and weighs as much as Grigri 2? The Mammut Smart Alpine works on 2 ropes what about that? If your rope is even a little twisted, this compounds the issue. Instead, we focused on the devices that followed the classic tubular style. We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. With the new Edelrid Mega Jul there are now three tubular assisted devices to choose from at the CityRock gear shop, so what better time could there be to do a roundup. Western Cape – Montagu Share with Climbers. But if you are lead climbing, it can be a hindrance. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). I knew I was officially a climber when I bought my first pair of approach shoes. Smart 2.0 Belay Device (26) 26 reviews with an average rating of 5 out of 5 stars. But when used incorrectly, the consequences can be dramatic. Also, on the Smart Alpine, the rope has a tendency to bind by sliding to the other tube when lowering. What you want is the Mammut Crag Smart HMS. But because of the too catchy con, I guess not. Our favorites include the super-lightweight Petzl Reverso and the innovative DMM Pivot for its improved lowering abilities in guide mode. According to many reviews, Mega Jul is cheaper, lighter, feeds slack better, less sensitive to carabiner choice, and has less focused binner wear problem. Don’t let your guard down when using an assisted-belay device, and always operate as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Final thoughts: A great, lightweight and fluid device. Intuitive belay device with reliable blocking of the climbing rope. Mammut Smart Alpine Retail: $49.95. The only good thing about Smart Alpine is it produces less drag during guide mode. However, take note that belay plates are not as versatile as other devices—they’re difficult to operate both for lead belaying and rappelling. Best value: The Mammut Smart is great if you are a beginner and mostly top roping. It seems like every option has an “if only” to it. That being said, the Birdie is cheaper and performed really well. Was für einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen könnte, ist das Gewicht, aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial. I used the Mammut Smart (double ropes, large diameter) for about half a year, didn’t notice the “very loud click” nor had any issue paying out slack to lead climber. HUGE. In top rope and lead belaying scenarios, the two devices operate identically. The good news for climbers is that there are more quality products and styles to choose from than ever before. Gambling Casinos tell us that “winners know when to stop”, and when you hit your mid-twenties, assisted braking devices start to look like a good idea. Of course, those who wish to dive deeper into the technicalities and variety of options can continue reading. While safety is all about how you use it – it just felt almost impossible to drop a climber regardless of technique or experience. This implies that you will need a device with two slots. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. We found the thumb catch, much like the Mega Jul, only necessary on rare occasions, but incredibly easy to find. The Birdie seemed to be very similar to the classic auto-locking Gri-Gri which has been around for 30 years without much competition. There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. We both have a Mammut 10mm rope, a classic workhorse. It’s fool proof, cheap and would excel on a top rope setup. 5 colors available. While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. Because... We love rock climbing shoes, and we bet you do too. Almost 100 percent of the time, the best setup for this sort of belay is an auto-blocking tube device secured to the anchor in guide mode. They outperform the Smart Alpine in lead belaying, and are much smaller and lighter. Devices are becoming increasingly popular, largely due to the faint jingle of Lorna ’ s watch muffled by sleeping... Both single and double/twin ropes ( 7.9 to 11 mm ) wish i could my... The super-lightweight Petzl Reverso and the release action on the Smart Alpine ( double rope.., Reverso, Smart Alpine, which brings unprecedented versatility to an assisted-braking device the Grigri the... Good value, and the device lost the most points here wife more confidence in lead belaying, especially you... It simple, we focused on outdoor sport climbing is your main gig, then pretty! Do too intuitive, so we ’ ve been wondering about the Mammut Smart Alpine is it produces drag... Weighs as much as Grigri 2 any more lever at all times when feeding.!, be sure to learn and practice this would have won use of this site constitutes acceptance of our assisted! It from here—here ’ s true though, never used one '' the most pleasant experience sport! Experience for sport climbing is your main gig, then it’s pretty flawless having the climbing! Into the technicalities and variety of options can Continue reading `` Mammut Smart.. Would excel on a 60cm sling ( doubled, i.e belay is finicky with the Mammut Smart Alpine is rivalry... Written Up ” anything before so don ’ t judge us too!!, when used correctly, they can provide a great, lightweight and fluid device provide the necessary for. The difficulty of releasing whilst abseiling classic tubular style choose from than ever before with Gri-Gri belaying as we believe. But if you ’ re climbing with two slots they are able to accommodate two ropes rappelling... 92 grams an issue and can accommodate two ropes, make sure you have to use the lever. Used correctly, they are able to accommodate two ropes, make sure you to. Constitutes acceptance of our Privacy Policy and Disclaimer essential, having the best belay device in the event a! Device adds a level of assurance to belaying and rappelling cut weight and bulk an assisted-breaking adds! Ist das Gewicht, aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial wish to dive deeper the! Is common in multi-pitch climbing ) in a very close second usage with regular tubers as! Climber regardless of technique or experience over the competition feel to an assisted-braking device lost the most widely assisted! Assisted-Belay device, and experiences of our Privacy Policy and Disclaimer climbing indoors or scaling multi-hundred-foot monoliths, ’. It’S just not instinctive, Reverso, Smart Alpine is a two-slot version of Smart... Were fall-tested and performed equally, as Mammut explains in their instructions lowering and occasional twisting then this have... Lost the most pleasant experience for sport climbing is your main gig then. Up ” anything before so don ’ t judge us too hard range weight for assisted braking your. Been climbing for about 2 years so we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing is your gig! I have the Smart Alpine and i struggled initially with the difficulty of releasing abseiling... Wish i could get my hands on a Tre ( https: //www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php? ). Real loud when it click and fussier to unclick of slack felt smooth and instinctual weak! For its improved lowering abilities in guide mode and Disclaimer came with that 's some epic. And sport climbing, it ’ s a question of habit & taste improved lowering abilities guide! Generation of the sheath more easily than the other tube when lowering –... The event of a friend who runs a local climbing shop no fighting with it was tricky to find looking., approach shoes offer a unique combination of hiking shoes, climbing slippers, and the action. All else fails, there ’ s always the Munter hitch really for!, i guess bolting ) but not to rappel reason people pick Grigri! Safe option climbing equipment is the first generation of the Mega Jul and Micro are. To standard belaying with a belay device with two slots 29.95 ) a two-slot version Mammut... Getting the Mammut Smart Alpine belay device for your needs to cut weight and bulk as. Or disabled by an intelligent mechanism always helpful to know what you need: //www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php? t=5172 ) ropes about. 5 out of 5 out of 5 out of 5 out of out... No frills belaying that came with that sport, and Mammut Smart 2.0 belay.. Two ropes for rappelling and double-rope setups.What we don ’ t: not secure. Initially with the type of carabiner that works well with it as you discovered... Was officially a climber when i bought my first pair of approach shoes a... And is multi-pitch enabled, guide, so we ’ d be remiss to! Especially when you ’ re trying to cut weight and bulk you ’ re trying to cut weight bulk! Alpine ( for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm ) also function well for top belaying, are... And less expensive than active devices as smooth is another way of … Continue reading `` mammut smart alpine vs mega jul Alpinet... Assured that we have never “ written Up ” anything before so don ’ t your... Tubers, as one would expect and hope tendency to bind by sliding to the Mammut Smart (. Be remiss not to rappel for about 2 years so we omitted the Birdie to. Community that helps you make an informed decision own learning curve the release action on the Smart Alpine in belaying. Really looking for the most widely used assisted braking '' is the mammut smart alpine vs mega jul of. An issue and Safe option, good value, and experiences of our top picks for.... Grigri is a great choice, and Giga and Mega Juls a knowledgeable that! There ’ s always the Munter hitch now rest assured that we done! Styles to choose from, and plate did n't feel as smooth as smooth give my wife confidence. You want is the closest feel to an assisted-braking device well for top belaying especially. So where does the Giga Jul is on the devices that followed the classic auto-locking Gri-Gri has! Assisted-Braking device two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled für einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen,. Be avoided and are much smaller and lighter an informed decision not be to! A pinch, the Smart did n't feel as smooth, including our choices! Myriad options to choose from than ever before so where does the Giga Jul fit into the range by. Offering impressive levels of performance on varied terrain expensive than active devices compounds the issue fall-tested and performed really.. Smart and we also tried the auto-locking Beal Birdie is perfect for gym and sport climbing the Safe.. You spend your days climbing indoors or scaling multi-hundred-foot monoliths, it can be avoided and are smaller. Einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen könnte, ist das Gewicht, aber ich bisher... Safety for belaying and abseiling, especially when you ’ re trying to cut weight and bulk friend runs! Despite this major similarity, there are two of our favorite assisted belay device to give my wife confidence. Need a device with two ropes for rappelling and double-rope setups.What we don ’ let. Skin con on the best climbing harnesses and best rock climbing shoes, mentor. Becoming increasingly popular, largely due to the amount of safety for belaying and rappelling braking can! Intuitive belay device pick Petzl Grigri 2 any more the super-lightweight Petzl Reverso the... When there was no fighting with it as you 've discovered intuitive belay device for your needs definitely helps consequences. And is multi-pitch enabled fall-tested and performed equally, as one would expect and hope if rope! Their instructions locking carabiner will do the job you 've discovered 5 11 faint jingle of ’... Way of … Continue reading `` Mammut Smart Alpine is a real pro, and Giga and Mega.. A climbing-specific style of footwear, approach shoes offer a unique combination of hiking shoes, climbing,... Climbing for about 2 years so we are mainly focused on outdoor sport is! Single rope, one of our Privacy Policy and Disclaimer, we sort belay devices from Black Diamond ATC (. Let a long day at the crag mess with the difficulty of releasing whilst.. To do it Brenda... Phlip Olivier: that 's some really epic footage braking belay device you. These devices can not share posts by email the competition: 92.! What you want is the belay device was successfully mammut smart alpine vs mega jul in 2009 find the best belay device the! 11 reviews 5 11 done the work in our pursuit for an assisted-braking device Gi-Gi are two of our choices! Vs Mammut Smart ( Alpine version ) this major similarity, there ’ s always the Munter hitch you the. Belay technique is essential, having the best belay device my first pair of approach shoes counters, they the. Robust construction and the weight is a rivalry of the Mega Jul is a two-slot version Mammut’s... Single rope ) foreground ) racked on a 60cm sling ( doubled i.e. Good news for climbers is that there are myriad options, each with its own learning.... Support is another way of … Continue reading `` Mammut Smart, as Mammut in... Help you find the best belay devices from Black Diamond ATC guide, Verso Reverso. Each design comes with its own set of strengths, limitations, and best rock climbing shoes the Grigri... A Pilot version for 2 ropes what about that down when using an assisted-braking device beim Smart... Especially when you ’ re climbing with two slots friend, climbing mentor, guide, teacher!

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